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Thursday, June 19, 2014

Monthly MashUp (6) Shandiin Cosi

If you're looking for the details of this monthly series you can check out the introduction post.

Monthly MashUp - with Call Ajaire

The official start of summer is still two days away, but we're in full summer mode here already.  With all of the pool days ahead I've been busy sewing swimming suits for Bean and I thought maybe some of you might be looking for a fun bathing suit pattern.  June's Monthly MashUp takes Sewpony's newest pattern The Cosi Swimsuit and mashes it with LouBee Clothing's newest pattern the Shandiin Tank & Tunic to make an adorable one piece swimsuit.

If you follow me on Instagram you'll have seen a bunch of Shandiin's over the past couple of months.  I haven't had a chance to blog about this amazing new pattern yet, but if you check out my #summerofshandiin hashtag you can catch a few of the ones I've made for Bean.  As with all LouBee Clothing patterns, the Shandiin Tank is full of style, right on trend (or setting the trend), and yet easy to sew.  The instructions are clear with full color photos for each step.  There are options for a tank length, tunic length, plain front, button placket front, puffed hem, and you can use knit or woven fabrics for the main fabric, but the real showstopper is the upper back with its perfectly arched crescent cutout.  It is sized from 12/18M to 8Y so there's a good range and you can check out a few more pictures here to see some of the options.

The Cosi Swimsuit has been much anticipated and does not disappoint.  It only released last week, but I've sewn two already and absolutely adore the style.  A modest, comfortable, yet still super cute swimsuit is a big win in my book and this Sewpony vintage pattern is all of that.  It's a vintage inspired swimming suit with lower leg line and a high waisted brief for the bikini option.  There are seven different options for this pattern, and they can be mixed and matched with halter tie or crossback straps and the adorable leg ruffle.  The pattern is sized 6M to 10Y and there are really great tips for sewing with swimsuit fabric including where to purchase the fabric.  The instructions are very clear and detailed so if you're having any hesitations about sewing up a swimsuit this pattern is a great place to start.

To start the MashUp, I chose View C of the Cosi which is a solid front, one piece swimsuit.  I included the leg ruffle because it was too cute to pass up.  Since I had made one of these swimsuits before, I knew the size 3 would fit Bean perfectly, but check the measurement charts to be sure you choose the right size.

For the Shandiin, Bean also wears a 3T, but since this is going to be a swimsuit and not a tank I needed the top to be more snug around the chest and straps.  I measured across Bean's chest, checked the finished tank measurements in the Shandiin pattern and chose the size 2T for this MashUp.

We are using the Shandiin for the back cut out and straps so we need the top front of the bathing suit to be shaped to accommodate the straps.  Align the view c front pattern piece center fold line with the Shandiin solid front tank center fold line (NOT the button placket line), and position the Shandiin pattern piece to where the armscye hits about 1/4" above the side edge of the Cosi pattern piece.  The Cosi uses 1/4" seam allowance and the Shandiin uses 3/8" seam allowance, but we are going to assume the 1/4" for the MashUp unless I specifically mention a different seam allowance.  Since we are working with swimsuit fabric, you should follow Sewpony's tips which are included in the pattern.  I use a walking foot on my sewing machine, serger, and a twin needle for the top stitching, but you'll see in her tips section that you have other options and that just a regular machine is enough to make a great looking bathing suit.

Trace around the top edge of the Shandiin and down the side edge of the Cosi and back around to the top.  This front piece is the only pattern piece that needs altering for this MashUp.  Cut out the new Shandiin Cosi front (lining optional), Cosi View C back (lining optional), Cosi leg ruffle, Shandiin Upper back (main and lining),  and the Shandiin Shoulder Straps.

Sew the front and back together at the bottom and the sides using the Cosi pattern instructions.  Using swimsuit elastic (I use 3/8", but 1/4" would work well too) attach a length of elastic across the top front wrong side.  Try not to stretch the elastic too much as it is there to help the swimsuit fabric maintain it's stretch and stretch recovery and isn't supposed to be clingy when worn.  I pin the elastic in place and then trim the end instead of measuring out a specific length of elastic.  Once the elastic is pinned, baste in place and then serge the elastic down.

Flip the elastic down toward the wrong side so that it isn't exposed on the inside of the swimsuit and then topstitch that seam together.  This is how I sew most of the edges of swimwear, but again you can follow the options in the Sewpony pattern.

Sew the bottom arch of the Shandiin upper back piece, right sides together, turn and finger press the arch flat, and then topstitch.  On the wrong side of the top edge of the back sew a piece of elastic.

Flip the elastic over and topstitch like we did with the front piece.

Right sides together, pin the upper back to the back of the swimsuit.  Pin a length of elastic to the wrong side of the swimsuit and stitch along the elastic catching the upper back at the same time.

Turn the elastic down to the wrong side, pull the upper back into its upright position, and topstitch everything in place.

This next step is a bit hard to capture, but we are attaching the straps to the front and back.  The Shandiin pattern has great photos of this step and my only addition is the elastic so you may want to refer to those pictures if there is any confusion.
Sew the Shandiin straps into circles by sewing each one along it's short end.  Starting at the strap seam and the side seam of the bathing suit, pin the strap to the suit right sides together moving up toward the upper back of the suit.  Back at the seam, pin in the other direction until you reach the top of the front of the suit.  On top of the strap pin elastic around the whole length of the strap (around the portion that will sit on the shoulder too).  Stitch (serge) the elastic onto the strap catching the swimsuit all the way around the armscye.  Turn the elastic under (as in the previous steps), but pull the excess strap fabric under as well.

Topstitch the strap all the way around the armscye catching the excess strap fabric underneath which will conceal the elastic.  Trim any excess strap fabric from the edge. The swimsuit fabric will not fray and it is on the inside of the suit so don't worry about leaving that bit unfinished.

Finish the legs of the suit according to the Cosi pattern and you are finished!

The swimming suit fits Bean really well, though I could probably have used the 18M size Shandiin for a tighter fit on the chest and straps.  The 2T fits nice and doesn't fall down so I liked the idea of her having a bit of room to grow this summer which is why I chose the 2T size.

The Shandiin back is so good and I adore those little leg ruffles.  The straps make it easy for Bean to get on and off herself which is great now that she's potty trained and wanting to do everything herself.

Now, are you ready for the giveaway?  Of course if you're going to be making your own MashUp, you'll need the Shandiin Tank and the Cosi Swimsuit which LouBee Clothing and Sewpony have generously offered to giveaway to the winner!

Just follow the instructions in the rafflecopter below to enter the giveaway.

a Rafflecopter giveaway

Want to MashUp your own, but don't want to wait until the giveaway is over?  You can purchase the Shandiin Tank pdf pattern here and the Cosi Swimsuit pdf pattern here.

This month I thought we could try a Link Up instead of the flickr group.  If you have sewn a MashUp within the past month feel free to add it.  It doesn't have to be children's clothing, but it should use at least two patterns to qualify.

Be sure to follow the Monthly MashUp Pinterest board if you'd like some more inspiration on garments to mash and I'd love you to share the Monthly MashUp button somewhere on your blog:

Call Ajaire Monthly MashUp
<a href="" target="_blank"><img src="" alt="Call Ajaire Monthly MashUp" width="125" height="125" /></a>

**the patterns for the giveaway have been generously donated, but all opinions are mine and I purchased my own patterns or put in the work as a tester before contacting the designers for this giveaway.


  1. So smart! I prefer bath suits with straps that way but they're hard to find. guess I better make one :)

  2. The Sewalong will be awesome! I'll have to try to mash more patterns:)-

  3. How cute!! A perfect mix of patterns!! You did a great job!!

  4. I always love a sew-along:) really cute swimsuit!

  5. Thanks jane! It is the cutest at the pool :)

  6. Thanks karly! I'm totally making something for myself with the rest of that fabric. I love the combo :)

  7. Thank you maegan. I think a simple sew along might work better than these super long once a month posts. I'm excited to hear what you think once they start :)

  8. Renee I love those straps so much. Of course it means she'll grow out of the suit sooner, but it also means it's a nicer fit for now. :)

  9. It's the natural progression right? I feel like these once a month posts are getting way too long so splitting it up a bit would allow for more specifics in the mashup. I'm excited to think you might sew along :)

  10. Thanks Suzanne! I love the cosi so much. It's such a great fit so thank you for working so hard to release this amazing pattern.

  11. Marnae! It's so good to hear you like sew alongs. I feel like I haven't seen your blog in forever. I'm running over right now to see what you've been up to :)

  12. This is such a great combo! I love the leg ruffles too.

  13. Nice mash up... she got a cute and unique new swimsuit!


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